Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2019. The words themselves evoke a sense of dramatic flair, a whisper of rebellious elegance. This collection, presented as part of the 2019 Fashion Shows, wasn't just a display of clothing; it was a statement, a sculpted narrative carved from fabric and imbued with a potent sense of power. Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director at the helm, delivered a show that resonated with a raw energy, a bold departure from the expected, and a captivating exploration of the female form. The collection's defining characteristic? An exaggerated silhouette, a revolutionary line that redefined the very essence of Saint Laurent's iconic aesthetic. It was a silhouette so dramatic, so boldly sculpted, that it felt as though the clothes themselves had been hewn from rock, great hunks of fabric seemingly leering over a cliff, defying gravity and convention in equal measure.
The YSL AW19 show was a masterclass in controlled chaos. The setting itself contributed to the overall atmosphere, a stark and minimalist backdrop allowing the clothes to command center stage. The absence of superfluous ornamentation heightened the impact of the collection's core elements: the dramatic cuts, the opulent fabrics, and the powerful presence of the models. The clothes, far from being merely garments, became architectural feats, each piece a carefully constructed statement that challenged the viewer to reconsider the very definition of femininity.
The exaggerated silhouette, the collection's defining feature, was achieved through a masterful manipulation of volume and proportion. Oversized blazers, their shoulders sharply defined and exaggerated, were paired with slim-fitting trousers or short, flirty skirts, creating a striking contrast that played with the tension between power and vulnerability. The jackets themselves weren't just garments; they were statements, sculpted forms that commanded attention. They were powerful, assertive, and undeniably chic. The sharp lines, the bold shoulders, the precise tailoring – all elements contributed to the overall feeling of sculpted strength. They were not simply worn; they were inhabited, each model embodying the confident spirit of the clothes.
The use of fabric was equally significant. Heavy, luxurious materials, such as wool, leather, and velvet, were employed to amplify the dramatic silhouette. These weren't lightweight, flimsy fabrics; they were substantial, weighty materials that lent a sense of gravity and substance to the clothes. The richness of the textiles further enhanced the feeling of opulence and power. The textures were varied, adding layers of interest to the overall aesthetic. The interplay of smooth leather against the rough texture of wool, for example, created a dynamic interplay that was both visually stimulating and tactilely intriguing. The choice of fabrics underscored the collection's commitment to quality and craftsmanship, reflecting the enduring legacy of Saint Laurent's dedication to luxury and precision.
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